Antibes is a town that sits midway between Nice and Cannes, quietly lively and the epitome of the word ‘chill’. Here you’ll find respite from overpriced lunches and cocktails, crowded beaches and the lifestyles of the rich and famous. You can certainly make a day out of it, with regular trains to and from Cannes and Nice, although instead, I would suggest making this your base for exploration. Beautifully poised against the azure Mediterranean Sea this enigmatic town makes a holiday home for solo adventurers, couples and families alike.
Eat
If you’re planning on staying in Antibes for a couple of days, I've listed a couple of my favourite options for eateries below.
Breakfast
The Provencal market sells a vast array of meats, fruit, veg and dairy that certainly won't disappoint. For an easy, fresh, delicious and quintessentially French breakfast roam here early morning (6 am onwards) and prepare breakfast at home. Find the market every day, excluding Mondays, in The Covered Hall.
If you didn’t come on holiday for home cooking instead steer for Le Clemenceau, 24 Rue Georges Clemenceau, for an easy-going laid-back brunch with a choice of Crepes, Omelettes, Baguettes and some lunch options too, this place pretty much does it all. Don’t expect five-star service, with relatively few staff, lots of customers and a generally relaxed attitude only dine here if you have time (and I mean nowhere to be). Despite this there is a comfort in this chilled attitude of service, the food was still great quality even if we did wait a bit, watching people saunter and stroll past, going about their day, has a philosophical feeling to it and one I never forget to enjoy. Oh, and I forgot we paid 25euro for two omelettes and two coffees - not too bad!
Lunch
Around the market, you can find plenty of cafes for a quick, cheap and easy lunch - a baguette will set you back around 4-6euro depending on the kind of place you choose and dining in sometimes costs more. I suggest getting something a little smaller, or easily managed, and walk Antibes at your own pace, get to know the place - explore little alleyways and intriguing gateways, just so you feel more at home.
Dinner
La Côte À L’os, 28 Rue James Close, is the first place that springs to my mind when someone asks me what my favourite thing was about our holiday. Sad? I know but this meal was among the best I’ve ever had.
Their menu does not have much variety and nor is it exclusively one kind of food, their selection of set menus encompasses beef dishes, seafood, pastas and scrumptious desserts. We were one of two tables dining the night we went, and service was outstanding - the food was exquisite, the wine was faultless and the atmosphere was incredibly romantic. I believe we paid around 30-35euro each, which don’t get me wrong, is not the most affordable of nights but one well worth it for the memory alone.
La Gravette, 48 B’d d’Aguillon, was literally top of my list from the moment we walked past it upon entering ‘The old town’ of Antibes. Situated one street over from our accommodation it was destined to be. By no means cheap, this place is one of, if not, the best seafood restaurant in the whole of Antibes.
Closed on Mondays but open since 1958 this restaurant is the perfect place for seafood lovers. Sharing a starter of salmon to start, having the grilled sea bass and grilled assortment of fish for mains, blueberry tiramisu and chocolate pudding for dessert and a bottle of wine between the two of us, it’s safe to say we both had food babies. The service is great and although the restaurant is usually busy we dined early at 8 pm to avoid the rush. Our total bill was around 130euro, although not within everyone’s price range if you are willing to splurge a little don’t miss out!
Walk
Antibes isn’t really notorious for being a touristic centre, brimming with activities but if you’re the quiet kind then this place may be perfect for you. Over our 3 evenings and one-half day spent here we saw plenty.
I highly recommend a slow stroll through and around Port Vauban, admire the boats in the early evening and feel dusk set in. Before walking the port head up the old battlements, along the walls and find a series of jumbled letters in a typical Mediterranean whitewash woven together to form Le Nomade by Jaume Plensa. A contemporary sculpture that is set to endlessly stare out to sea, whilst crouched in an almost foetal position. Mid to late May the sun sets behind the statue and land, making for some stunning photos and an eerie sense of something I couldn’t quite put my finger on. There’s not really a necessity to allow more than 15-30mins when visiting Le Nomade but it’s worth placing on your list!
Climb the city walls with a bottle of wine in hand and some light snacks just as the sky turns to hues of orange, yellow, red and pink to catch a hopefully phenomenal sunset. The city walls are wide enough that you can sit atop them for a casual drink, a chat and a sunset to remember with friends and fellow travellers. If you’re really feeling it then grab a takeaway pizza from Gusto Antibes, 32 Rue Aubernon, to compliment your evening.
Musee Picasso is situated in The Palace of Grimaldi and is a collection of photographs, primarily, that document his later life and time spent in The French Riviera and a very small amount of his work with Fauns, among other things. It may not light ‘a fire’ within those Picasso enthusiasts but is definitely worth seeing. I appreciated how truly the photography captured his life and essence and loved seeing the raw artistic processes that you often forget happen even with greats like Pablo Picasso.
Relax
If you regularly read my posts, you know me and you know that above all I will recommend Airbnb, for the benefit it does for the local economy, better prices, better facilities and more welcoming and homely
spaces. With Antibes, I 100% standby this, here you will find cheap Airbnb’s ranging from £280 for 4 nights through to £800 for 4 nights in luxury, but all with charm and responsible hosts.
Secondly if you’re looking to kick back and relax outside of your holiday home then head for some of the local beaches, although we didn’t explore them all, less than two minutes walk from our Airbnb was Plage de la Gravette, a small spit of sand and sea sheltered by sea walls and although supposedly overcrowded in peak season and public holidays this beach is typically quiet, friendly and great for a morning swim. The perfect place to lay down, chill, maybe even nap and soak up those ‘azurian’ vibes. Don’t miss this beach at the crack of dawn and early evening!
After filling my four days, ferrying between Cannes and Nice and spending evenings eating great food and drinking far too much wine I wouldn't hesitate to repeat it all again!