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Côté d'Azur | Èze’s beauty


Patrick Giraud on 13. Oct. 2005


The beautiful medieval hilltop town is a world away from the likes of Cannes or St-Tropez. It’s charming cobbled, sloped streets give way to sweeping views of the mediterranean sea, dramatic coastline, fresh sea breezes and an idyllic escape that is more reminiscent of Greece’s villages than The Côte D’Azur.


How long to spend here


The initial ‘climb’, if you could call it that, is a walk in the park - upon arrival, we saw everyone alike from elderly women, intrepid tourists, families, couples to

young women dressed to the nigh in 6-inch platforms roaming up and down the short burst of steps. Once inside the walls, the steps don’t stop but the beauty is overpowering. The town itself is small, remote and although idyllic and romantic in the daytime, is pretty sparse in the night in terms of restaurants and bars. Most places close at around 7 pm with the exception of hotel bars and restaurants, which are pretty exclusive themselves.

You could spend two to three hours wandering the streets themselves, meandering in and out of quaint stores with shelves lined with semi-precious stones, jewellery, clothing and souvenirs and still have time for lunch, Le Jardin exotique and Vieux Èze.

Although beautiful, there is a very limited amount of time you can spend here lost in these quiet, pedestrianised streets. So instead of devoting a whole day to Èze, instead combine it with nearby Nice or head to Monaco, 15 minutes by car or an hour on public transport, for an afternoon and an evening.


What to see


First and foremost, head straight for the top to Le Jardin exotique d’Èze, with stunning views, incredible hanging plants alongside Rivieran taste sculptures this surreal place will consume you and leave you in awe of the views of Monaco’s coast to your left and The French Riviera to your right.

The church, previously in ruins and rebuilt by 1778 is a historical monument, is still in use for residents and equivocal to the spirit of small towns like this along the southern coast of France although you can enter and admire the architecture, the Christian art and have a short respite from the harsh sun outside.

The streets and lanes rise and fall, contouring with the land itself and are riddled with tiny steps and countless intriguing doors you can’t help but wonder what’s behind. They pose a myriad of photo opportunities and make for a romantic destination to meander around, have coy conversations, get lost, laugh and search endlessly for a bench that offers respite from calf burning climbs and descent. Take some cash and don’t be shy to explore quirky souvenirs that Èze has to offer, although not cheap these souvenirs will definitely serve as a beautiful reminder of this tranquil town.



Where to stay


The options in Èze are pretty thin on the ground in terms of ‘budget travel’ or backpacking, with around 50 private rentals and only 17 hotels prices range from around £100pppn to £1,500pppn. The hotels hoard the best terraces with the most beautiful uninterrupted views shuttered away behind wrought iron gates wound in bougainvillaea and although I'd love to spend four days sipping cocktails under fairy lit pergolas and swimming laps in near empty pools I think it’s slightly out of my reach for now! For better information on this head over to TripAdvisor or eze-tourisme.com.


My top tips

  • Bring 8euro max for parking up to three hours at the bottom of the slope, next to the tourism office.

  • Spend the late morning, early afternoon here - it won’t be too hot as you should have a light sea breeze.

  • Make sure you have a great camera to capture some beautiful photographs as keepsakes and show-offs at home.

  • Don’t be shy in the boutiques, be kind to the locals that open up their serene town to you and above all be respectful of your beautiful surroundings.


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