Here in Italy on Labour day (May 1st) big cities and main tourist attractions can be pretty packed so we decided to head off-the-beaten-track for the little known town of Vigevano of Pavia in Lombardy, Northern Italy. About a 1 hour drive from Milan sits a town steeped in history dating back as early as the 10th century AD. Relatively untouched by tourism this inviting town will welcome you with open arms.
Although this town is not a place to spend a whole holiday it's definitely worth a visit if you have a spare day. The town was one of the chosen residences of The King of Lombardy and is historically an art town also known for it's shoe making and rice fields which offer stunning views while driving in on a sunny day. There are three main sights to see and visit but the small winding labyrinth of streets offers some great opportunities to shop in independent shops and taste some of the towns specialities, alongside a great gelato.
Castello Sforsezco
Fortified in the 1400's, and sharing it's name with Milan's castle, this is the main site to visit. This was originally a Lombard castle turned hunting lodge for the Visconti family and has been expanded and fortified many times. It's famed for its covered walkway that acted as a entryway for horses into the castle courtyard swell as it's watchtower, a later addition, that can still be climbed today.
When visiting you can see the fresco hall, walk the covered road, visit the dungeons, explore the riding stables-cum-exhibition space, explore the The Leonardiana Museum, walk through The Stable of Ludovico il Moro, gaze at The Picture Gallery, visit The Footwear Museum and Shoe Style Lab which cements the towns history with shoes and also visit The Archaeological Museum.
Admission prices may vary and guided tours can be booked at the info point and sometimes upon request you can see parts of the castle usually closed to the public (again ask at the info point). I would suggest 2 hours to see the castle in its totality.
Piazza Ducale
Now known to be the largest open square in Europe this was originally constructed for Ludovico Sforza in the 1400's. It is an exquisite example of a renaissance square. It is flanked on three sides by porticoes that are now lined with chic stores, funky restaurants and cafes with outside seating areas perfect for soaking up the sun in hotter months.
This square is completely pedestrianised and is the hub of town life here, you see people dressed up in effortless style of Sundays and public holidays tucking into lunch after church and kids playing while parents catch up over coffee. Unlike most squares in Italy this one is enclosed on all four sides giving it a really unique feel.
On a sunny day take half an hour to chill out here, drink a coffee in one of the restaurant seating areas and observe the Vigevanesi people in their effortless style and laid back manor.
Duomo di Vigevano
The original church that stood here is documented as early as the 930's, although the one that now stands was commissioned much later. The cathedral is most famous for it's museum (Museo del Tesoro del Duomo Vigevano) that houses around 100 precious objects donated by a member of the Sforza family, in the 1500's, and more. Amongst the collection is 'A 16th-century wall-hanging embroidered in gold which was used in Monza in 1805 for the coronation of Napoleon Bonaparte.'
Grab a Bite at L'Oca Cuica
L'Oca Ciuca, literally translating to The Drunk Goose, is a restaurant on Via XX Septtembre that serves homemade pasta, bread and desserts (made daily). It also serves boards of salami and cheese; but primarily this restaurant is focused on serving local game specialising in goose. This restaurant has outdoor seating May through October and is positioned just outside the castle grounds. It offers a stunning view of the historical castle walls and is situated on a relatively quiet street.
The food was delicious and fairly priced for game meat, the service was friendly and welcoming. L'Oca Ciuca is seemingly the hotspot of the town and we were lucky enough to snatch up the last 2 seats for lunch with plenty of people requesting tables after us but being turned away. Therefore, I highly recommend booking in advance for lunch (especially on a sunny day) and dinner. Our bill totalled at around 55euro for 2 people which isn't too pricey although not the most frugal either but it was well worth it to eat something akin to the towns hunting heritage.
What else to see nearby
If you're a fan on Milan you'll definitely know about Navigli, one of the chicest areas in Milan, world renowned for it's pretty canal and prime location for sunny evening aperitifs. About a 20 minute drive away from Vigevano is The Naviglio the continuation of the famous canal in Navigli, contrarily to Milan it is flanked on either side by expanses of green fields and on a sunny day is visited by many locals who jog, cycle and go for relaxing walks along its bank. If you find you've had enough of Vigevano (highly unlikely) then you can always park up nearby and take a walk along The Naviglio for a relaxing end to the day and to take in some fresh countryside air. You could endlessly walk along the canal but you can take in a good portion of The Naviglio on foot in around an hour.
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