Today is going to be a short and sweet post about Santaurio della Beata Vergine del Monte Carmelo, a Catholic church that sits atop a hill in the Parco Regionale di Montevecchia e della Valle del Curone, a diverse area of natural beauty, hiking trails, small towns and architectural monuments. The church offers beautiful panoramic views of the surrounding valleys that sparkles at night from the scattered houses among the hills and by day leaves views as far as the eye can see and mountain peaks.
Montevecchia itself is a municipality that is rather a gathering of houses, churches, restaurants and precariously paved pedestrian areas along a narrow and incredibly steep road. Parking is sparse but unfortunately driving is really the only way to get here and as we found out the hard way they do ticket everyday, even Sunday, so be conscious of where you park.
Now, back to the church, Santaurio della Beata Vergine del Monte Carmelo is around thirty kilometers from Milan and Como and is reached via a panoramic road that climbs up to the "Agnesi" plaza, in itself this plaza offers a beautiful viewpoint of the valley and park and is also a busy little respite, from the countless winding pathways, to grab an ice-cream or a coffee.
This plaza sits beneath the church which crowns a deceivingly tiring stairway of one-hundred and eighty steps that are lined by lime trees and privet bushes. Once scaling two thirds of the stairs, coloquialised by some as the "holy ladder", there is a grass pathway that encircles the hill. It's referred to as "Via Crucis" because of the 14 sandstone edges that depict the 14 supposed stages in Christ's journey to Calvary - these were carved by parish priest Giuseppe Antonio Villa in the 18th century.
If you're lucky enough to visit on a day where this is open it offers a chance to catch your breath as you follow the pathway round the hill to view these edges and the panoramic views that intersect them. From the west you can see fertile low-lying plains sprawled with vineyards, rosemary and sage grass, giving way to the Brianzoli bellower and on a clear day all the way through the Lombard plain to Milan. Upon looking further north you will see the pre-Alpine hills of St. Genesio, Valcava and the Manzonian Leeches' peaks.
"[Montevecchia] is a hill, from the top to the summit, laughing with vineyards and orchards, pitches and staircases, staggered by casual farmhouses..."(Cesare Cantù, Carlambrogio da Montevecchia, 1836)
The little church on the hill was recognized as a parish in the 1500's, it has since been rebuilt after damage by a fire, and the original chapel added too and modernised. The interior is as any Italian church is, frescoed walls, a marble altar, a towering organ and a small number of pews that offer the perfect seat for a rest after the lengthy climb and a cooling break on a hot day.
However, to the right of the church is a small but unassuming door that is left open and leads through a 'eclectic' hallway of old photos of monks and priests, a tiny kitchen and tables. At the furthest end on the left is an humble and tiny doorway, follow this, climb yet more stairs and you'll find yourself on the roof of the church. The roof boasts an even better vantage point for those panoramic views and a closer position to the bell tower.
Although Montevecchia doesn't have much else to offer than views and certainly won't take a whole day to see, it's definitely a beautiful and breathtaking sanctuary. If it's on your route whilst passing through don't hesitate to stop, if you want to hike then investigate some local trails here; on the other hand you could scale this hill with a hamper in hand and some local Italian wine to catch a beautiful sunset or for a late lunch in the sun for a romantic afternoon. As with every old-world Italian town don't miss out on the ice-cream and, as always, be respectful of residents and their homes (don't trespass on their gardens for a better view).