On our latest trip to Bologna we decided to stay in Imola as it was quieter, cheaper, more practical and allowed us to see more of the Emilia-Romagna region, in Northern Italy. Imola is a sleepy, little town close to Bologna that is most famous for its racetrack which hosted the Formula One San Marino Grand Prix where Ayrton Senna and Roland Ratzenberger died in 1994. Although this appears to be the only notable claim to fame for Imola, this innocuous and Italian town, stereotypical of the region, has much more to offer.
The highlight of our trip was our dinner in Osteria Da Noi (Viale Giovanni Amendola, 63) which was filled with unexpected surprises. The restaurant is in a building that dates back to the original Roman town of 'Forum Corneli' and while being renovated was found to contain bone fragments that are believed to be the leftovers of Roman lunches eaten here. Some findings have been dated as early as the first century BC.
The restaurant is housed in the cellars of the building and while dining you are sat among grand brick and mortar arches evocative of the history itself. I was awe struck walking into this restaurant both by the setting and how relaxed and quiet it was. This restaurant has been open since 2002 and you are instantly made to feel welcome and at home; the service was outstanding and all our questions about food, wine and the history of the place were answered in more detail than we could have asked for.
For starters they put together a platter of local specialities including Piadina (a kind of wrap, but cut up), hard and soft cheeses, gnocco fritto (deep fried bread, the recipe of which varies in each town) and varying types of salumi. It was incredible because of its generous portion size and amazing taste.
For mains we had first courses which are typically pasta. I chose the most local dish after enquiring about nearly every single thing on the menu. Passatelli Ascuitti e Tartufo Nero, passatelli is a type of 'pasta' typical of the Emilia-Romagna region made of bread crumbs, egg and parmesan pressed together and put through a pasta machine. It is then cooked in broth and usually served in the broth, but this was dried and served with black truffle shavings and some light herbs. I was really nervous to try this but the flavour is unexplainable, rich but light and sweet but salty, I would love to have the recipe but would probably make a massacre of it!
Luca had Pappardelle di Grano di Segale al Ragu di Cinghiale, which is as it sounds pasta with Ragu, but instead of the usual meat it had boar meat instead, he loved it and finished it and also finished mine off, as per usual! To accompany our meal we had a local red wine 'Tenuta De' Stefenelli Armonia' and the restaurant also re-corks unfinished wine for you and bags it to take home which was great as we finished it a week later! We skipped desserts as we were ridiculously full.
Overall our bill was around 50euro, which not only is cheap but also really unexpected due to the quality of the food, the beautiful location and quality of service. I would highly recommend this restaurant even if it means going slightly out of your way from Bologna!
What else to see while you're there if you want to make a day out of Imola, its a great opportunity.
On Saturday's Imola has a market along one of the main streets selling clothes, food, everything really, and there is a dedicated market space which has a rotating timetable of markets varying from local organic food suppliers to livestock suppliers who sell everything from peacocks to rabbits (so cute!).
The Town Centre is a stunning example of traditional architecture, typical of the Emilia-Romagna region, the main square is surrounded by porticoes with grand red blinds to shield the businesses from the sun, wandering through this square is like stepping into a period TV series! The main square has countless cobblestone streets funnelling outwards lined with local owned boutiques, florists, gelaterias, chic cafes and stylish bars that are filled with more people than live in Imola on a Saturday night.
The town is scattered with remnants of the Roman city walls and defences which although aren't explained or signposted, are fascinating. The town is also dominated by a humongous church which we didn't visit but I wish we had.
For me the crowning glory of Imola is the Castle, Rocca Sforzesco, which has played an instrumental part in so many periods of the regions history and is now open to the public for a 3euro entrance fee. You can walk the ramparts, see the collections of medieval weaponry and ceramics used by the people who once defended the castle and discover an incredible hidden history behind Imola's quiet front.
The castle is in great condition and is a sprawling complex of the oldest parts and newer additions. We enjoyed an hour and a half spent walking around the castle on a relaxed and rainy Sunday afternoon. I would really recommend this for families, as kids would enjoy running around this castle as if it was their own play fort.