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A City of Towers | Bologna


Image via WikiCommons

Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna in Northern Italy, is an ancient city and is home to an incredible heritage for food, wine, architecture and education. The historic centre is a sublime blend of Florence's charm and Milan's style. Every street is lacquered with history, beauty and quirks and although we only caught a rainy snapshot of Bologna it was entrancing. This post will be a guide to the major sites of Bologna if you're passing through or dropping in for a quick visit.

Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna | Bologna University's Library

The main original library, now unused by students

The University of Bologna is Europe's oldest, founded in 1088 in times of wealth and affluence, and its historical library is still open today and available to view with a guided tour. The library is a visual feast and is otherworldly.

Located on Via Zamboni, 35 I would suggest starting your day here. Entrance to The Library is free if you ask at the reception desk and a student of the university will give you a guided tour, providing you with some information about the history of the university and it's founders, some insight in to the countless busts that adorn the tops of towering bookshelves categorised by endless subjects and a walk through of the site. Although our tour-guide's English wasn't great I was lucky enough to have my proxy-translator (my wonderful boyfriend) so I got all the information I asked for. I would suggest reading up on The Library before you go so as to not miss anything. The walk round takes 30 minutes approximately at a very relaxed pace and the library is very rarely busy as most people head for The University Museum instead.

'Legend has it that a woman taught in Bologna between the 12th and 13th centuries, Bettisia Gozzadini. It is said that, attracting huge crowds, her lessons were held not in the classroom but in the public squares.'

Basilica di San Petronio | San Petronio Basilica

A very overcast Piazza Maggiore

We headed in to The Historic Centre and stopped by San Petronio Basilica which wasn't originally on our radar but seeing this immense structure rise from the space adjacent to Piazza Maggiore we couldn't resist peeking inside. Unlike many great Basilicas in the north of Italy the entrance is free. The inside is grand but simplistic and the floor is intersected by a meridian line, inlaid in 1655, providing the most precise measurements of time for that period. This church is full of smaller chapels dedicated to different saints and originally built by different families and makes for a spectacular viewing although not much history is given.

'A fresco, painted by Giovanni da Modena, depicting Muhammad in Hell being devoured by demons, has been the motivation for two attempted terrorist attacks between 2002 and 2006.'

Voltone del Podestà | The Whispering Walls

Housed in Palazzo del Podestà is a vault that we nearly walked by unsuspectingly until we saw people each huddled in to one of the 4 corners seemingly talking to themselves. We were undeniably confused until I caught on that it's an acoustic chamber. This vault has an acoustic effect assumed to be because of the curved walls and ceilings meaning if you stand in adjacent corners and whisper you can hear each other perfectly.

'[The vault] originally housed the city market and the benches of the notaries; later on, blasphemers were set on the pillory and hangings were performed under its arches.'

Piazza del Nettuno | Neptune's Square

Neptune's square is a significant square next to Piazza Maggiore, Palazzo del Podestà and near the Basilica that exhibits a opulent fountain crowned by Neptune. This statue was built by the Flemish sculpture Jean de Boulogne in the years between 1563 and 1567 and subsequently the whole square was remodelled to show the statue as it's prime feature. This square was a wash with tourists snapping photos unlike the rest of Bologna but is definitely worth a stop by while you stroll around.

'The trident of the fountain inspired the Maserati brothers and was as emblem for their first car, the Maserati Tipo 26, it has been the Maserati logo ever since.'

Le Due Torri | The Two Towers

Perhaps the most iconic site in Bologna these two towers were constructed between 1019 and 1119. The Asinelli Tower is the tallest leaning medieval tower in Europe, at just over 97 meters tall and a climb of 498 stairs, that are seemingly eternal, this tower gives way to sweeping and uninterrupted views of Bologna. The smaller counterpart Garisenda Tower has a much sharper lean and is unclimbable due to soil subsidence. Despite the rainy day we made the climb and were not disappointed. This climb is not for the faint hearted and unfortunately, due to it's medieval architecture, is inaccessible for many disabled people. However, it is spectacular and well worth the climb. The tickets can be bought at the tourist office in Piazza Maggiore or online and cost 5euro per person.

'There were at least one hundred [towers] at one point built by Bolognese families to make show of their power with military function of defense or other military ends. Of those, 24 towers are [still standing] in the city centre to this day.'

Quadrilatero | The Food Quarter

This 'district' is distinctly known as the food quarter of Bologna, a series of small streets are lined by eateries flaunting different specialities of Bologna or sometimes the same slightly varying in recipe. Some streets have fresh produce stalls and some stores are occupied by chic stores. In the summer months it can be very hectic here for lunch and it's difficult to make your way through the streets past tables and countless people but it is a must see of Bologna. We didn't eat here as we gave in to hunger and ate in a tourist trap restaurant (only regret). Head here for a summer evening Aperitif or to sample the quintessential tastes of Bologna with a cheese & meat board.

'This is the place where family-owned, multigenerational businesses were built centuries ago. Most of these shops have preserved the historic architecture and furnishing, thus making them genuine artistic treasures.'

Other Must Sees

Archiginnasio di Bologna - Original medical school of the university.

Torre Prendiparte - Another tower, with a twist... it's a B&B

Portico di San Luca - The longest remaining portico (walkway) in Italy on a beautiful hilltop.

Via dell'independenza - A historic area to walk and the main commercial street.

Finistrella di Via Piella - A bizzarre window with a view of one of Bologna's only remaining canals.

Santaurio di Santo Stefano - 7 churches in 1.


Essentials for Bologna

A comfy pair of shoes - Bologna is all about walking!

A plan of action - it's easy to get lost in this maze of medieval streets...

Curiosity - Bologna is steeped in history and culture and venturing away from the crowds might offer some little surprises.

A big appetite - There are so many foods, tastes and specialities on offer in Bologna don't miss out on countless opportunities to try something new.




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